Eastern & Oriental Hotel: The Pearl of Penang

The moment I stepped through the grand entrance of the Eastern & Oriental Hotel, I understood why writers like Somerset Maugham and Rudyard Kipling made this their Penang sanctuary. The lobby, with its soaring columns, gleaming teak floors, and gentle sea breeze drifting through open windows, transported me to an era when travel was an art form and hotels were destinations unto themselves.

Founded in 1885 by the Armenian Sarkies Brothers, the same visionaries behind Raffles Hotel Singapore and The Strand Yangon, the E&O has witnessed every chapter of Penang's modern history. From British colonial administrators to modern-day travelers seeking authentic heritage experiences, this seafront grande dame has welcomed guests for nearly 140 years.

A Tale of Two Wings

The E&O comprises two distinct sections: the original Heritage Wing from 1885 and the Victory Annexe added in 1903. During my stay, I chose the Heritage Wing specifically, and this decision made all the difference. The rooms here feature 14-foot ceilings, period furniture, and the ineffable charm that only genuine heritage can provide.

My suite overlooked the Andaman Sea, with the Penang ferry crossing visible from my private veranda. Each evening, I watched the sun set over the water while enjoying complimentary afternoon tea, a ritual the hotel has maintained since colonial times. The sound of the sea, combined with the creaking of century-old floorboards, created an atmosphere impossible to replicate in modern constructions.

The Sarkies Brothers Legacy

Understanding the E&O requires knowing the remarkable Sarkies Brothers. Martin, Tigran, Aviet, and Arshak Sarkies were Armenian entrepreneurs who created some of Asia's most legendary hotels. Their philosophy combined European luxury with tropical sensibility, creating a new paradigm for hospitality in the East.

The E&O was their first major project, preceding Raffles by two years. They chose this Penang waterfront location strategically, positioning the hotel to catch the sea breeze in an era before air conditioning. This natural cooling, combined with wide verandas and high ceilings, made the E&O the most comfortable address in colonial Penang.

Literary Connections

The E&O's guest book reads like a who's who of early 20th-century literature. Somerset Maugham stayed here while researching his Malayan stories. Rudyard Kipling visited during his Eastern travels. Noel Coward found inspiration in these corridors. Hermann Hesse reportedly drafted portions of his work while gazing at the Penang sea.

This literary heritage remains palpable. The hotel maintains a small collection of books by authors who stayed here, and the Writers Bar pays homage to these creative visitors. I spent one evening in this bar, sipping a Singapore Sling (the Sarkies Brothers invented this cocktail at Raffles, but it tastes equally appropriate here) while imagining the conversations these walls have witnessed.

Dining at the E&O

The culinary experience at the E&O deserves its own section. The flagship Sarkies restaurant serves contemporary interpretations of colonial-era dishes, from Hainanese chicken rice to British-influenced roasts. However, I found the greatest pleasure in simpler moments: the daily afternoon tea in the lobby, breakfast overlooking the sea, and late-night suppers in the Farquhar Bar.

The 1885 restaurant, the hotel's fine dining venue, offers an impressive tasting menu that weaves Penang's multicultural heritage into each course. I particularly recommend the Penang laksa interpretation and the colonial-era inspired desserts. Reservations are essential, even for hotel guests.

My Insider Tips

After three stays at the E&O over the years, I have accumulated some recommendations that might enhance your experience:

Exploring Beyond the Hotel

The E&O's location places you at the edge of George Town's UNESCO World Heritage zone. Within walking distance, you will find centuries-old clan jetties, British-era colonial buildings, Chinese temples, and the vibrant street food scene that earned Penang its culinary reputation.

I recommend dedicating at least one morning to walking the heritage trail. Start at the hotel, walk along Lebuh Farquhar past colonial-era buildings, then turn into the narrow streets of Little India and Chinatown. The concierge can provide detailed walking maps and arrange guided tours with local historians.

For those interested in colonial history, nearby Fort Cornwallis (15 minutes walk) marks the spot where Captain Francis Light first landed in 1786, claiming Penang for the British East India Company. The Penang Museum, housed in a colonial schoolhouse, provides excellent context for understanding the era that produced the E&O.

Final Reflections

Staying at the Eastern & Oriental Hotel is not merely about comfortable accommodation. It is about inhabiting a piece of living history, walking the same corridors as literary giants, and experiencing the romance of a bygone era. In our age of identical chain hotels and standardized experiences, the E&O offers something increasingly rare: genuine character formed over more than a century.

Yes, there are more modern hotels in Penang. Yes, some might offer more contemporary amenities. But none can offer what the E&O provides: the opportunity to sleep where Maugham slept, to dine where colonial administrators once plotted, and to watch the same sunset over the same sea that travelers have enjoyed since 1885.

For heritage enthusiasts, literary travelers, and anyone who believes that where we stay shapes how we experience a destination, the Eastern & Oriental Hotel remains essential. Book the Heritage Wing, request a sea view, and prepare to step back in time.

For more information, visit the official Eastern & Oriental Hotel website or read about George Town on UNESCO's World Heritage Site listing.